Friday, February 20, 2009

Surfing USA!

I went surfing today!

It was more amazing than I ever could have expected. I loved it - and shockingly, did WELL at it. Very rare for Miss J-maki-maki (my new Hawai'ian name I gave myself) to do well in sports, particularly on the first try! (I stood up on my first wave!) I figure surfing is about two things: balance, and not being scared to fall. Apparently my balance is decent, I only feel off really when stupid *@$* children got in my way and I didn't want to behead them. I figure good balance comes from a secret thrill of climbing/jumping on rocks and biking? I have no idea. And I'm not scared of falling because, well, I'm not.


Honestly, surfing was one of the best experiences of my life. My ribs are a bit sore from laying front down and paddling, but no sore muscles yet. I could have just stood with my board instead of laying on it, but I like bobbing and heading face first into the waves when I was waiting for my turn. It was so much fun, I can't believe I didn't take surfing up as a child (duh, lives on PEI).

I contemplated renting a board for the rest of the afternoon, but was kind of hungry and needed to fetch a couple of things. *and lay in the sun*

I think I will rent a board on Sunday back in Waikiki :) :) :)

Also have a bad sunburn. I coated myself in sunscreen, but apparently missed the back of my legs at the very top. So from the bathing suit bum line down to halfway down my thighs is blinding red. Sexy. And a bit painful to sit on when driving. Lesson learned!

Time is up.

La fin.

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